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Cornwall Morganeering Copyright

 

Japan

The North Alps - September 2009

Day 6

 

Having studied the map in some detail, the low-level route via Kurobe Lake looked the most interesting, and there were two lodges available to me on this route. At least I would be breaking new ground, rather than going back along the trail via Shishidake to Ichinokoshi. Again as I would be walking through trees and bushes on my way to Kurobe Lake I attached my bear bell for safety.

 

Leaving Goshikigahara Lodge
I set off at 7-15 a.m. and headed for Goshikigahara campsite, where I turned right along a ridge down to the Lake.
 

Goshikigahara Campsite

I noticed something move, and realised that it was a group of raicho feeding on the low bushes. Their colouration is such a good match for their surroundings that they are hard to see.

 

Raicho

The first part of the trail went down a steep ridge down a boulder strewn ravine, but it eventually flattened out until a series of zig-zag paths led down to the lake itself.

 

First glimpse of the Lake

I reached Hirano Goya, at 11-15 a.m. after four and a quarter hours walking. There is a boat service across the lake here for hikers wanting to continue on the trail the other side of the lake, which goes up to Mt Hari-no-Ki.

 

Hirano Goya

View of the Lake from Hirano Goya

Boat times for crossing the lake

I chatted to a lady at the lodge and asked her if I could have some hot water for my cup-o-soup. It looked a really nice lodge so I asked her if it was possible to stay the night. I did not really understand her reply, but it told me that it was not possible to stay. It could have been that they were closed, or it might have been reservation only. She said that it was another 4 hours to the Kurobe Dam and the path was good. On this basis it would be about three and a half hours to the next lodge, which was O.K. I started to take my bear bell off my pole, saying to the lady that I probably did not need it any more. She was adamant……. there are lots of bears in this area, she said, so you had best keep it on!

 

Trail leaving Hirano Goya along the Lake

Kurobe Lake

 


So I set off again, bell jangling on my walking pole, just hoping that there were no deaf and dumb bears in the area who might not hear me coming! It was a pleasant walk along the lake with the path more or less following the contours, but where ravines entered the lake it was necessary to go inland and to climb up higher. There were numerous wooden ladders and bridges to help you pass the difficult bits.
 

 

 

 

 

I eventually came to a knoll and saw for the first time the lodge ahead the other side of the ravine, but I did not get too excited as I knew that I had at least another hour’s walking ahead of me.

 

Lodge Kurohan viewed for the first time across the ravine

The last bridge to cross on route to the lodge

I actually had to walk away from the lodge to cross the ravine first, and then walk back towards the lodge. By the time I reached Lodge Kurohan it was 4-45 p.m. …… I had been walking for 9.5 hours and was pretty tired. I got an uncomfortable feeling as I approached the door of the lodge as there was no sign of activity and no lights on! The lodge keeper came to the door and told me they were closed! He said that I just needed to walk another 40 minutes and I could get a bus to Omachi! I said that I have been walking for nearly 10 hours and was really really tired, there was no way that I could walk another step. He said they had no food available, but I countered that by saying that I had food and all I needed was somewhere to sleep! While I was waiting for him to decide whether to let me stay I put some money in the vending machine to buy a drink, but because there was no electricity it did not work! The lodge keeper had to go to an outbuilding to switch on the generator. He hummed and aahhed for a while but eventually I was able to persuade him to let me in. By this time a Japanese walker had arrived as well, so he gave rooms to both of us! He even agreed to cook us an evening meal! I was most encouraged as I checked in as he gave me a small white towel……… a definite sign that the hotel had an ofuro! (Japanese bath) What a joy it was to get out of my walking clothes and to soak in the bath! There was even a washing machine in the bathroom, but I thought that it was pushing my luck a bit to ask him if I could do some washing!

The meal that he prepared for us was excellent. We had trout, tonkatsu, chicken, soup, rice and various mountain vegetables. It was really good, and was washed down with a can of Asahi Super Dry beer!

 

Lodge Kurohan

Luxury... a tatami room all to myself!

Camp site at Lodge Kurohan

Was I glad to have somewhere to sleep that night!